Toronto rocks: Canada's music capital
Canada's largest city is an unlikely mecca for music lovers. But, as Rebecca Nicholson discovers, Toronto's championing of local artists makes for a lively scene.
There are plenty of holiday destinations around the world suitable for the discerning music fan. There's the Copacabana, where music and passion remain the fashion. Dead Kennedys fans may wish to take a short trip to Cambodia. The Sex Pistols' "Holiday in the Sun" could refer to a broad range of resorts, but let's guess that they meant Majorca, or Rhyl.
Toronto seems a relatively unlikely candidate for the rock 'n' roll atlas: but the largest city in Canada has ahealthy music scene, if an unshowy one. In fact, it's said to be one of the best places in the world to be a musician. There are grants and loans available to bands of various levels of success, doled out to help with the expensive business of touring and making videos. This comes partly from the government and partly from the country's TV and radio broadcasters, who are legally required to pay into a "talent development fund" as well as to give a certain amount of airtime to local artists (there is a similar model in place in France). And some of this music money goes to events such as the Polaris Prize, which has just given its sixth award for best Canadian album of the year.
I arrive in the city the day before the ceremony, just as the Toronto International Film Festival is finishing. The queues for cinemas around the entertainment district are beginning to dwindle as music takes its turn in the spotlight. The Polaris Prize is a bit like the Mercury Prize, though it's smaller, indier and a lot more fun.
On a drizzly afternoon, the day of the event, I take a stroll down Canada's Walk of Fame, which honours its celebrities with aHollywood Boulevard-style series of stars in the pavement. I pass Bryan Adams and Nelly Furtado, take asnapshot of Celine Dion, and step over Neil Young and Nickelback. Across town, Coldplay have erected an outdoor stage for a free concert to launch their latest album. When I speak to local musicians, they all tell me it's hard to get radio airtime in Canada, that the stations fill their playlists with the music celebrated by the Walk of Fame. More independent music doesn't get much of a look-in.
As I delve deeper into the music scene in Toronto, I find myself questioning whether this city truly lives up to its reputation as Canada's music capital. While artists like Celine Dion and Bryan Adams have certainly made their mark, there is a certain lack of vibrancy and originality that I can't ignore.
However, my doubts are momentarily put to rest when I attend the Polaris ceremony at the historic Masonic Temple Concert Hall. Here, I am introduced to a diverse group of musicians from different generations and genres. From the timeless singer-songwriter Ron Sexsmith to the haunting electro sounds of Austra's debut album and the globally renowned Arcade Fire with their Grammy-winning masterpiece, The Suburbs.
During the event, artists express their gratitude for being nominated, acknowledging the boost it gives to their exposure and sales. The atmosphere is jovial and celebratory, with the night filled with cheers and clinking glasses. And it is no surprise that Arcade Fire emerges as the victors, graciously accepting a $20,000 check and vowing to use the funds to establish a studio, providing a haven for other Canadian bands to create more exceptional albums.
This commitment to supporting and nurturing homegrown talent offers a glimpse into the inclusive nature of Toronto's music scene. It becomes evident that while the mainstream may sometimes feel lackluster, there is an underlying sense of unity and camaraderie among artists striving to create something truly remarkable.
Later, the city's music scene congregates at the boutique Drake Hotel in the studenty west of the city for an afterparty laced with the locally brewed Steam Whistle beer and Jägermeister. After the afterparty, I'm whisked off to a local 24-hour diner to try the national dish of poutine, a much-discussed delicacy which comes in many different, mysterious, delicate combinations. Being from the north of England, I am thrilled to discover that it's essentially chips and gravy, with the innovative addition of cheese curds. We sip smuggled-in booze and listento the diner's music selection. Like the rest of the planet, they are playing Adele.
The day after, having had a solid three hours' sleep, I meet up with Damian Abraham, who had hosted the ceremony the night before. Right now he's a radio and TV presenter for the local music channel Much Music, but in his other life he's known as Pink Eyes, the singer from hardcore band Fucked Up who set fire to abathroom in the Masonic Temple Concert Hall a few years ago, during a live MTV broadcast. He's still officially barred from the venue; they can't have recognised him in his suit.
Exploring Toronto's thriving music scene is a fascinating experience. During my visit, I had the pleasure of accompanying Damian to some of the city's top record shops. Gone are the chains, but the independent stores are flourishing, even on a weekday like Tuesday.
Our first stop was Sonic Boom, a treasure trove located in the Annex district. This sprawling store boasted an impressive collection of CDs and a massive section dedicated to secondhand vinyl records. I couldn't resist leaving without a stack of records in my arms. Damian, as our knowledgeable guide, provided a captivating history of Toronto's vibrant music scene, even recommending bands with intriguing names like Revenge Abortion and Molested Teen.
Not stopping there, we continued our exploration by venturing to Soundscapes, Rotate This, and Planet of Sound. Each store proved to be a haven for music lovers, offering an array of albums and genres to satisfy diverse tastes.
Our quest took an unexpected turn when we set out to find Rick's Emporium, a beloved secondhand CD shop from Damian's youth. Unfortunately, we discovered that a doughnut store had now taken its place. Although initially disappointed, we soon found solace in the mouthwatering treats served at Burger's Priest, a charming shack-like joint. I must confess, I still daydream about their renowned burger creation—a delectable combination of an unspecified melty cheese nestled between two mushrooms, all coated in crispy Panko breadcrumbs and fried to golden perfection. In my opinion, it could very well contend for the title of the best burger in the world.
Embarking on this musical journey through Toronto's record shops was an eye-opening experience. I highly recommend visiting Sonic Boom, Soundscapes, Rotate This, and Planet of Sound to immerse yourself in the city's thriving music culture. While some shops may have come and gone over the years, the passion for music remains as strong as ever in Toronto. So grab your headphones, explore the city's vibrant music scene, and discover your new favorite album.
Toronto: A City Alive with Music
As I step into a lively coffee shop on Queen Street West, I join Steve Jordan, the visionary behind the Polaris, who despite nursing a headache, is already brainstorming ideas for next year's ceremony. Excitement fills the air as Steve enthusiastically shares a list of must-visit venues. From the legendary Bovine Sex Club, which has showcased renowned artists like the Strokes and Kings of Leon, to the iconic Horseshoe Tavern, a hub of diverse performances since 1947, featuring legends such as Loretta Lynn and the Ramones, Toronto's music scene beckons.
Although there are no bands playing that evening due to the lingering post-Polaris atmosphere, I decide to hop on a streetcar and connect with newfound friends from the previous night. We happily explore various bars, sipping farewell gin and tonics. As conversations unfold, I discover that Toronto's music community is a tightly knit tapestry. DJs, musicians, record store employees, and event organizers emerge, extending their hospitable offers. There is an overwhelming flood of invitations to crash on floors, attend shows, and experience incredible club nights. It becomes abundantly clear that Toronto truly is a mecca for music lovers, and I secretly hope that the looming strike will go ahead, providing me with more time to immerse myself in the vibrant music scene.
Planning Your Trip
The prestigious Polaris Music award, known to celebrate Canadian music, took the stage on the 24th of September, 2012 (polarismusicprize.ca). For those considering a visit, British Airways offers flights to the bustling city of Toronto, with return fares beginning from £469, inclusive of all taxes (britishairways.com). However, if your budget leans more towards pocket-friendly prices without compromising the joy of exploring the city, consider staying in one of the many Ontario hostels. If you're seeking accommodation with a touch of luxury, consider the Drake Hotel, where room rates commence at a reasonable $169 (thedrakehotel.ca). For extensive details about Toronto's various attractions and insights, explore seetorontonow.com.